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舌尖上的乡愁——郏县味道

文章来源:舌尖上的郏县 作者:马红娜
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发布时间:2016-05-13 15:07:56

  郏县味道是家乡味,它由很多味道组成的。郏县人不管走到哪里,最忘不掉的,是饸饹。不管是郏县县城,还是乡镇,甚至稍微大点的村子,都有饸饹店。饸饹店最大的特点就是锅大,一般都是两个锅,一个锅里煮着肥美鲜嫩的羊肉羊骨,据说锅里能煮三只羊,另一个锅是下饸饹条的,下一锅饸饹条,大约可以捞三、五十碗饸饹。一般来说,县城里的饸饹碗小,大家都是图吃个味道,乡村里的碗巨大,能装一到两斤饸饹。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

      离饸饹店老远,就能闻见一阵羊肉香气,再近一点,隔着玻璃窗就能看见店里热气腾腾人头攒动。尤其是在饭点儿上,人挤人人挨人,不时有人保持着弯腰伸手上半身不动的姿势,小心翼翼地端着密溜扯沿的碗,大喊“借过”、“小心烧着”,双眼迅疾地寻找可以放下一个碗的空闲桌子,一旦看见,就飞快地占领阵地。放下碗,赶紧甩着双手或者朝手上哈气——那碗实在是太热了,烧得手生疼。放下碗,去消毒柜里拿了筷子,就迫不及待了挑起长长的饸饹条往嘴里送,一霎时,整个饸饹店里都是吸溜吸溜吃饸饹的声音。但是,没有人会在意别人吃饸饹的吸溜声会影响自己的食欲,反倒刺激食道加速蠕动。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

      饸饹的做法简单,但是工具特殊,不是自己在家就能做成的。即使能做,也做不出这样的味道,即使味道相似,也没有这样热闹的氛围。做饸饹最重要的原料是羊肉,再加上各种作料煮成一锅浓稠鲜香的肉汤,浇在已经放了碎芫荽、葱花的饸饹条上,再挖上一大勺用羊油烹制的辣椒油,吃起来让人酣畅淋漓,大呼过瘾。那味道,只要你吃过,就再也忘不掉!一般情况下,每家饸饹店里都有炕火烧儿的。火烧儿是一种圆圆的面饼,像烙油馍一样抹上油盐,放在鏊子上烙半熟,然后放在鏊子下面的火塘边上,慢慢炕,炕的焦黄香脆,就着饸饹吃,绝对是人间美味。尤其是把火烧儿掰碎泡在汤水里,绝对比羊肉泡馍好吃。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

     县城饸饹店当然不少,最出名的大概有五六家,有八一路张记,十字街张记和北下坡马记,批发市场北门许记,四里营筋面郎等,每一家都有自己的顾客群体,每个人都感觉自己喜欢吃的那家味道最正宗。绝大多数都是用羊肉汤浇饸饹,也有不良人用牛犊肉冒充羊肉,但是绝对没有人用大肉。原因有两个,一个是大肉汤不好吃,第二个原因最重要,因为郏县饸饹店基本都是回民开的。回民在郏县占的比例不大,但是回民从事的职业基本上都是餐饮。据说在乡镇,也有几家饸饹非常好吃,但因为没有机会品尝,所以不能妄加评论。因为和冢头镇有些渊源,曾数次在冢头镇上吃过几次饸饹,个人感觉最好吃的当属洛界公路边上的张记饸饹。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

      除了羊肉饸饹,郏县熟牛肉也是一个很出名的食品。郏县红牛是作为一个品牌被郏县人推崇的,郏县政府部门也是极力向外界推广。牛肉是被切成薄薄的小片儿,整整齐齐的码在一个白瓷盘子里,边上放上几瓣剥了皮的蒜,或者放几段葱白,撒上一撮芫荽,红鲜鲜的肉,白生生的葱,绿盈盈的芫荽,你还能拿捏着架子不伸筷取食吗?记得小时候,过年的时候,父母总会买些各色肉类充实清淡的餐桌,我最喜欢吃的就是熟牛肉。不过我们不是一小片儿一小片儿的吃,而是切下一小块,顺着肉的纹理撕下一小丝儿,轻轻放在嘴里,慢慢咀嚼,仔细品尝每一丝牛肉融化在嘴里时,那种香香的感觉。有时候为了眼气别人,还会故意眯缝着眼睛,吃完了还要咂咂嘴,把意犹未尽的感觉演绎地淋漓尽致。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

       郏县味道里不能不提谢老婆烧鸡。谢老婆烧鸡在郏县人心中地位很高,不过现在它的味道已经没有当初鲜美。也许是因为当初的人们原本就没有什么美味,而这烧鸡价格不高,很多平常人家都能吃得起,所以更多人品尝后口口相传,增添了它不凡的魅力。后来听说在冢头镇有家非物质遗产传承人煮制的烧鸡更好吃,就前去品尝,果真是香嫩可口,而且肉质细致紧凑,有嚼头。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

       郏县豆腐菜是郏县人的早餐,仅经一路上就有挨门三家,味道都不错。豆腐菜也离不开羊肉汤的滋润,粉条、切成细丝的豆腐在羊肉汤里翻滚,盛出来后放上芫荽葱花儿,放上羊油辣椒油,一两块钱的油条或自家烙制的油饼,一碗免费的稀饭,不仅能吃饱,还能吃得浑身舒坦。只不过这三家各有自己独有的特色,一家是发面油馍头,一家是自制油饼,一家是油条。当然还有很多别的店吃着也不错,但没有品尝过,顾不能擅言好赖。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

       在郏县,有一个乡不能不提,那就是姚庄回族乡,那里是茶食文化之乡,最著名的是茶水,据说有一眼古井,水质甘甜清冽,汲出即可饮用。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


      郏县味道当然不止这些,在吃货们的口里,没有最好吃的,只有更好吃的。郏县游子在他乡梦中还在期待着能吃到家乡的这些美食,似乎只有吃了这些,才能略解心中对家乡的思念。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站


 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

作   者:马红娜MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

编   辑:吃货君MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

 MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

欢迎转发朋友圈,欢迎提供美食线索MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

未经许可不得转载。MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

投稿及商务合作,请留言微信后台或发邮箱:2462009490@qq.com   MMM大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

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