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古代也有冷饮?酥山是高档冰淇淋 酸梅汤流行一时

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发布时间:2019-07-26 14:26:41

 北京7月26日电(记者上官云)“出门五分钟,流汗两小时”,炎热的夏天,让怕热的小伙伴不得不想方设法待在空调房里“续命”,口感甚佳的冷饮更是成了许多人熬过酷暑的标配。LLL大手笔网—中国第一文化门户网站

 
现代社会物质丰富,可以吃到花式冷饮自然不稀奇。其实,在古代也有各种类似冰淇淋一类的消暑佳品,名目繁多,足以令现代人眼花缭乱。
 
《楚辞》里的冰镇饮品
 
一般认为,冷饮大约起源于商代,跟对冰的使用有关。隆冬季节,人们先从河中挖出冰块放进冰窖储藏,以备夏天所需。周朝时,还设置专掌冰权的“凌人”。
 
春秋末期,一些冰镇饮品出现了。比如米酒、“柘浆”、“瑶浆”等等,瑶浆最有意思,人们先用各种鲜水果榨汁,再加工成糊状,就成了一道美味的冷饮,颇有点现代冷饮的雏形。
 
《楚辞·招魂》提到过“挫横冻饮,酹清凉些”,描述的就是冰镇米酒的甘甜。
 
不过,那个时候毕竟配料比较少,古人用冰的方式相对单调,多半是用来冰镇果蔬或饮品。
 
形似冰淇淋的“酥山”
 
时间推移至唐代,冷饮变得更加精致了。比如“酥山”,模样跟现在的冰淇淋已经非常相近。
 
它的制作方法要稍微复杂一些,先把牛奶反复熬煮,再把浮在上层的固体物捞起来加工成酥。之后,把“酥”加热变软,容器底层先放冰,然后再把“酥”淋上去,制作出山峦的造型,放到冰窖冷冻起来。
 
“酥山限于大富之家和宫廷中才有可能制作,高规格的宴会上少不了酥山助兴,并且酥山的体积越是大,便显得这场筵席的档次越高。”民俗专家王娟说。
 
此外,唐代有公开出售的“冰棍”,在桶里放上冰块,撒一些盐令冰的融点降低。再找几个小铁盒,盛好蔗糖水,插入小木棍,最后放进盛满冰块的木桶,不多时就冻成了冰棍。
 
点击进入下一页
 
资料图:图为重庆一广场现巨型雪糕模型,吸引小朋友眼球。周毅摄
 
对当时的冷饮,杜甫曾写过“公子调冰水,家人雪藕丝”等诗句,流传至今。
 
宋元:冷饮“普及”名目繁多
 
随着社会经济发展,冷饮在宋代得到一次普及,成为老百姓们也能享用的食物。《东京梦华录》等书记载,那时的冷饮通常在冷饮中加冰,种类相当繁多。
 
例如,北宋英宗时期,民间已用果子汁调和各种奶汁,放上冰块制成近似冰淇淋的冷饮,这里冰就直接做了饮料。
 
具体到名字,有沙糖绿豆、漉梨浆、木瓜汁、卤梅水、红茶水、椰子酒、姜蜜水、香蕈饮、梅花酒、金橘雪泡等。著名的《清明上河图》中,就出现了类似冷饮店的招牌。
 
当时的上流社会最流行吃刨冰,有的上面浇桂花卤,有的上面浇玫瑰卤,有的则直接浇乳糖浆,美味可口。
 
那个时候,也有类似“冰粥”的食品。如流行一时的“甘菊冷陶”,就是先用好米煮成稀粥,然后放进加工过的甘菊作为香料,再“冰镇”一下,就成了夏日人们解暑的美食。
 
到了元代,冰酪中会加入果浆和牛奶。元好问《续夷坚志》载:“冰水冬日结冰,小于芡实、圆结如珠……盛行以蜜水调之,加珍珠粉。”很有点沙冰的味道。据说,为了保守制作冰淇淋工艺的秘密,元世祖还颁布过除王室外禁止制造冰淇淋的命令。
 
琥珀糕与冰镇酸梅汤
 
明清时期,冰块的储存更便利了一些。原料易得,人们各种“开脑洞”,出现了不少冷饮佳品,杏仁豆腐、冰碗等现在还能见到。
 
明朝时,有一种颇为特别的食物:先用白面加绿豆黄,再伴以其他调料搅拌晒制而成的“造曲”,夏天有新鲜的莲蓬、藕大量上市,还能喝清凉美味的冰镇莲子汤。
 
在北京,彼时最有名的莫过于冰镇酸梅汤。《燕京岁时记》中记载,“调以玫瑰、木犀、冰水,其凉振齿。”
 
另外一种比较受欢迎的消暑佳品,就是“琥珀糕”。西瓜汁滤渣后用小火熬制,汁水黏稠后冰镇,好看又好吃。晚清时,还有用碳酸气及酒石酸或枸橼酸,再加糖与其他果汁做出汽水。
 
王娟说,古代很早就有冰窖可以储冰,北方一些地区也有奶油等物,制作冰棍或冰淇淋等冷饮其实并不难,古人吃的冷饮,其实花样很多。(完)
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